Sewing a Corded Seam

If you want a really cute and decorative seam that stands out, consider a corded seam. This type of seam is often used as a design feature and looks stunning when you use a fabric or color that really sets off the entire project. Try this on pillows or skirts first, then get more adventurous and add it to shirts, quilts, and anything else you like.

The options for the 'cord' part of your seam are endless. The easiest thing to do is just cut a strip of fabric that you like, but you can actually buy cording for seams if you like. I tend to prefer just working with fabric, but it's really up to you.

Unlike some other seams, to sew a corded seam you do not start with a plain seam. Instead, you have to create the seam with the cording already in place. To make your cording, cut a strip of fabric as long as the seam and a little bit wider than double the seam allowance. So if you're going to leave ½" seam allowances, the fabric should be just over 1" wide. How much wider depends on how prominent you want the cording in the finished product. I like a very discrete cording, so I'd cut a piece of fabric that is 1¼" wide. You can go wider, if you like.

Now that you have your fabric strip, you can start your seam. You'll need pins to keep everything in place, so make sure you have plenty on hand. The key to a corded seam is to line everything up and pin it all in place before you start. You'll be lining up the raw edges of the seam allowances of both your project and your fabric strip. The seams of your project go right sides together, but the fabric must go in between. Fold your fabric strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. This is important. You want the right sides of the fabric strip facing outward.

Now that you have your folded strip, you can place it in between the raw edges of the seam allowances of your project. Line everything up perfectly and pin in place. You don't want anything to slip. Stitch as you would a plain seam, ½" from the seam allowance. Go carefully and straight, making sure you're catching the cording while you sew.

This technique can be used to apply many types of decorative trim. You can apply cording, yes, but also lace or any trim that has enough of an edge to slip between the fabric of whatever project you're working on. The possibilities are endless.

Sewing a Double Topstitch Seam

A double topstitch actually adds a little structure to your project, unlike some of the other decorative seams. It's definitely more stable than the more common topstitch seam. Of course, it does take a little more time. It takes double the time, actually, because you have to stitch down both sides of the seam allowance. But it works well and is worth the little extra time. Besides, it's not exactly a complicated stitch.

Like so many decorative seams, you're going to start with a plain seam. Press the seam open. Make sure the plain seam is perfectly flat. The finished product will look better the smoother the original seam is. When it's as flat as you can make it, topstitch on each side of the seamline about ⅛" from the plain seam. Make sure the distance from the plain seam is the same on both sides.

You can venture further from the seam, if you like. You can even go up to ½" away from the plain seam. But be careful and make sure you catch the seam allowances while you stitch. Don't miss them. If you do miss them, you'll have to unpick the entire topstitch line and start again. It's a decorative seam, after all. It's designed to look nice.

This seam is simple and easy and makes a pretty little addition to a variety of projects.

Sewing a Topstitch Seam

Decorative stitches don't do much for the structure of your garment or item, but they do look pretty. The topstitch seam does help a bit, but only by holding the seam allowances in place. It isn't strong enough to be a seam all on its own, so you'll have to start with a plain seam. It is stronger than the hand pick seam, but it won't give much support or structure to your project.


Start with the aforementioned plain seam. Press both seam allowances to one side. Don't bother with trimming them. It's unnecessary for this decorative stitch. Make sure your seam allowances are flat and that the seam itself is well pressed. The seam will look better for it.


Begin stitching on the right side of the fabric. Stitch ¼" to ½" from the seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances while you stitch. Don't miss the seam allowances. Go slowly if you need to or even stitch a little closer to the seam if you must. The whole point is to secure the seam allowances.


This seam is quick and gives a little something extra to your projects.

Sewing a Hand Pick Seam

Sometimes, you're looking for a decorative seam to punch things up a bit. The hand pick seam can be used to hold your seam allowances in place while at the same time giving a unique look took a project. It's not difficult to do, but it does take a little time. You are hand stitching a bit, after all.

Start with a plain seam. This is where most decorative seams start. Press the seam allowances all to one side, making sure they lie flat and there are no unexpected creases that might cause you to miss a stitch. After securing your thread to the wrong side of your fabric, hand stitch a series of small backstitches down the edge of the seam allowance on the right side of the fabric, making sure to catch the seam allowance in your stitches.


You can space the stitches from ¼" to ½" apart. If you want a more uniform look, pin a piece of graph paper to the right side of your fabric to create a guide for yourself. If you want a more random look, forget the graph paper and space the stitches as you like.


This stitch doesn't provide much structural support to your projects, but it's not meant to. Decorative stitches are just what they sound like. They're just for looks. A fun way to put your stamp on your projects. You can make the stitches large or small, spaced evenly or not. It's entirely up to you.